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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.